39.3K
MJSame technique, now with a plate mould. This is what works for me — the “hit” keeps the clay even and helps avoid wobbly plates.
@mjhceramics
#Mudtools Sponge Set
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(12)
27.1K
KAThere’s something so satisfying about this stage - cutting, refining, and letting the form reveal itself. I use a cookie cutter to slice the sponge cutout and once they’re bone dry I will wipe them down, softening their edges and giving me the blank canvas to paint my designs which will really bring them to life.
Made for real kitchens and daily routines, and that’s my favorite part ✨
#handmadepottery #standard266 #spongeholder #potteryprocess
@katydid_ceramics
3.2K
BRThis is how I finish the rims of my mugs. I want them to be round and smooth as glass. I mean, it touches your lips and tongue which are by far the most sensitive area to touch (besides the finger tips) in the human body.
@brookhartceramic
1.8K
EMI don’t throw a lot with porcelain and it definitely feels different to stoneware clays… it’s soft and doesn’t like much water and the temperamental bugger will let you know…
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I had 5 balls to throw and managed 5 mug bodies so that makes me excited, once they are all trimmed and handled I will show you the results of the marbling and just how different each one looks
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Wheel and stains - @meetceramics
Batt system - @hartleyandnoble
Crap editing skills - all me 🥴😅
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I’m debating a voiceover for the next one 🤔 should I do it?
@em.mae_studio
21.9K
SHA few weeks ago I made this set of sponge holders and trays. Here’s how they turned out glazed!
I chose to use three different glazes. A shiny white, a satin blue gray, and a shiny olive green. The green one is actually the current “dump” glaze at my studio. It’s the glaze that gets mixed from discards of all the different glazes we use. It’s a great way to not waste expensive glaze materials – but the downside is that even if you love it, it will only be available while it lasts and never reproducible.
I fire my work to cone 6 which is approximately 2232°F (1220°C) and I use glazes that are prepared and mixed at my studio.
If you’re interested in knowing more about the surface I’m working on, The Clay Mat™️, please check it out in the link in my bio 😊
You can find a more detailed video of the making of these sponge holder and trays in two of my older posts.
#theclaymat #ceramics #pottery #handbuilding #spongeholder
@shayne.berlin.ceramics
5.3K
NAReedited cos the original didn't get enough 👀
Hand building a mug from a rounded base with integral foot (created using my medium foot ring tool).
I'm hoping to launch the next batch of foot ring tool sets on my site this week.
Drop any questions in the comments👇🏻
#handbuiltpottery #handmademug #potteryforall #potteryreels #potteryvideos
@naomitatemaghen
206.2K
ASMy #1 trimming hack ✨
There’s three major benefits to popping a lid on the base while trimming.
1️⃣ I can use it to measure the diameter that I trim the work to without having to actually get a second tool out (hello increased efficiency).
2️⃣ Having a lid to protect the base of the pot means I ca press down firmly without worrying about adding a dent in the clay from my finger. It also spreads the pressure out so if the base *was* just a little bit thin I could increase my chances of getting away with it!
3️⃣ I can use the lid (in some cases like this bowl) to compress the clay - rather than swapping to my metal kidney which I’d usually use. Again, this is saving some time which is handy when there’s a big trimming line up! (And if you didn’t know, compressing the base will make the glaze easier to wipe off later. The particles are more compressed making it harder for the liquid glaze to absorb.)
Sooooo how many jar lids are you hoarding?
PS It’s been a while but finally … nice speckled bowls coming in hot for my Open Studio next Saturday!
#AustralianCeramics
#PotteryTips
@ashleehopkinsartist
784
RU25 lbs
bathroom sink attempt #1 🤞
@rukiart
412
ROTrimming in morning light with @lildickygram and @xiemtoolsusa foam mat. Love those shadows 🤙
@robinina
1.3K
JO3 tips for throwing larger I learned from the most awesome and amazing @moondobang last fall and a bonus one from me 😂
I attended his demo day in Chicago last year; I highly recommend the experience; he’s even more magical in person ❤️❤️
1. Use firmer/drier clay; this will give your piece more structure to start and provide you with more time before the clay can reach the overworked stage.
2. Control your water usage; as a beginner, I used a ton of water, but as I’ve developed and honed my skills, I’ve cut down on the amount of water I use (but I still have a lot of room to improve). This is especially important for folks using clays that tend to tire quickly when used with a lot of water like porcelain. Try just wetting your hands and applying only just enough water, instead of dousing your piece with a sponge full of water each time. It also helps to use ribs (and sometimes sponges) when shaping.
3. Leaving a thicker rim; this helps hold the top of the piece in place. When you’re pulling up the cylinder for the last time, slow down as you approach the top of the cylinder, and be sure to leave the rim a tad bit thicker than the rest of your cylinder.
Bonus tip:
Learn how to pull clay down a piece. Most often we’re only moving clay up a cylinder or piece, but it can be really helpful to learn how to move clay in both directions. It will help you to fill in and reinforce thin/weak sections. In the video around the 23 second mark, because I left the rim and top section a little thicker, I was able to pull some of the clay down into the shoulder that was getting on the thin side.
@joelsbigbowls
1.3K
ELThings are heating up in the studio
@elderamics
3.3K
SAHere’s how I trim my ceramic spoonrests. Hope it helps you guys out there!
@saltyseasceramics
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