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HESuccess on small holds isn't about finger strength! While it can certainly help, if your body positioning is wrong, no amount of finger strength will help you. Many climbers assume that they're not strong enough when they fall on a move. But climbing and bouldering in particular is a skill-based sport, which means our underlying conditioning is a secondary driver for success on the wall. If you feel like you "suck at crimps," give these adjustments a try.
🚫 stop focusing on pulling harder with your upper body. This tends to pull your elbow out and away from the wall and causes you to commit more of your body weight to your fingers.
✅️ start sagging below your crimps to find your balance point. This will help keep your face and body into the wall, which improves your angle of pull. (That means the crimp will feel better!)
✅️ start thinking about rocking your hips over your feet when you're moving between holds. This climbing technique allows you to balance and keeps more of your body weight in the stronger muscles of your lower body.
Make immediate progress with this climbing tip! Share with a climbing buddy you want to try this with next session.
#bouldering #climbing #learntoclimb #technique #beginner
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