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ICFEATHER EDGING
If you’re facing serious ice to remove with the edger, you have to consider the clearance required to avoid damaging your augers during the blend in. This is why we can’t just rip out 1/4” with the edger and immediately blend it with the resurfacer.
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When I’m removing more than 0.2” of ice, I use this feathering technique to achieve target depth, but avoiding the inevitable clearance issue during blending.
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METHOD:
1) first pass - minimum cut - 1 edger width out from the boards, follow the curve
2) second pass - 3+ turns down on the edger - start and finish at min cut to avoid dead stop marks
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What is happening when I do this?
• a more graduated shoulder from at-height ice to the significantly lower “new” edge at the rim
• without a peak, the blade can start working on leveling without the lip interfering with the augers
• the added pass cuts an additional +/-10” strip of ice, putting less strain/resistance on the resurfacer
• doing the inside pass first produces a single smooth slope to the boards, versus a potential “step ridge” when you do the outside first.
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This method also works really well for edging SHARP/SQUARE type corners, where the conditioner may not naturally reach for blending.
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Try it out next time you have big corners to correct!
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